Beach Day in Malaga

Today (Monday), I woke up at 10. It was so nice to sleep in. After getting ready and eating breakfast, I walked to the beach (which is essentially at the bottom of the hill where they live). When I arrived, it was very misty and you could barely see much past the shore, but after a bit, the sun burnt the mist off and it got much warmer and nicer. I went for a run on the beach which felt amazing since (other than my mad dash to the bus station while trying to get to Ronda, I haven’t run this whole trip). Afterward, I was sufficiently hot enough to get into the water which was quite chilly. But, once in, it felt nice and refreshing. It’s also very easy to float in the Mediterranean because it’s so salty. It was a little weird when I got out though, because I felt really dizzy – like, I was even walking funny. I don’t know if it was motion sickness from floating on my back (yes, this is entirely possible lol), or if, while floating, I was spinning in circles without knowing it or what. But it went away after I lay down for a while and dried off.

At 2 p.m., I sat up, ate an orange and some melted dark mint chocolate (mmmm) and then made my way back. Before going inside, I went to the pool which felt awesome and swam in there for a few minutes. I practiced my handstands, but I have to say, after getting used to doing them on land, the water handstands felt kind of lame. When I got out of the pool, I felt dizzy again, but not as bad as before. I hope I’m not getting vertigo or something. That would be bad. Haha

After showering, I was packing my things when Juande got home and started making lunch for us. We ate spaghetti and little fried fish that he called “sardinitas.” (I realized later, they were fresh sardines!) He had cooked them, as far as I know, scales and all (including the head and tail). When he put the plate of them down in front of us, I just stared at it, and he was like “I’ll show you how to eat them.” And he put one on his plate and cut off the head, than sliced open the body down the middle, pulled out the spine, cut off the tail, and ate the rest (i.e. - the meat with its fried scales). Now, some of you may know I have had a serious aversion to eating fish that look like fish since I was about 13. I actually used to cry when I saw a fish I was supposed to eat that in any way resembled a fish. So, the fact that I ate 4 of these little suckers without even wincing (on the outside) utterly surprised even myself.

I always promise myself to try anything offered me and to do my best not to be rude and you know what? It really wasn’t that bad. I’ve decided I want to be known as brave, and eating sardines was just one more step toward that goal. :)

After lunch, Juande drove me to the train station and now I’m writing this from the train on the way to Madrid. I will spend one night there with Enrique again, then fly to London where I’ll spend one more night with Meera before flying home on Wednesday morning.

Granada

On Sunday I woke up at 9 so I could leave the house by 10 and be on a bus to Granada at 11. This time, I didn’t get lost at all and was able to make it to the station with 15 minutes to spare, buy my round trip ticket (20 euros), and wait for the bus to load. The trip was fairly uneventful and I just sort of dozed most of the time.

When we arrived, I went to this info booth and bought a map for 1 euro and was told which bus I needed to take to get to the center of the city. While waiting at the bus stop, there was a guy next to me who also didn’t look Spanish. I asked if he spoke English, and he said, “I am English.” lol He was from Lincoln, England. I think his name was Jason...or Jeremy or Johnny. Some J name. Anyway, turns out he was in Granada because he works on the Lenny Kravitz tour and he sells t-shirts and stuff and travels with them about 2 weeks at a time. Pretty cool job...he gets to see so many interesting places.

An Arab street in Granada

View from St. Nicholas Plaza over Alhambra.

The bus came shortly after we started talking, and we hadn’t exchanged any information before a bunch of people got off the bus and I thought it must be my stop, so I got off too. It’s sort of a shame, because it is always nice to have more contacts – especially with someone with a job as cool as that. But, that is also part of this sort of trip – meeting and talking to people who you will never see again, whose name you may not have even gotten. There is something a little romantic about it – the people who touch your lives for one moment in time. They live on only in your memory.

View over city and Alhambra.

Anyway, turns out it wasn’t my stop, but it wasn’t too far a walk to where I wanted to be – the cathedral. Unfortunately, they were holding mass in the cathedral so I only got to go into the entry hall area. I could still see much of the church and it was beautiful, but I couldn’t walk around it. However, from what I could see, it was no more impressive than the other bazillion churches I’ve seen on this trip.

In Alhambra gardens.

From there I just started wandering in an upward direction toward this plaza that Enrique said I had to visit. The streets were scarcely labeled and very tiny, cobbled and full of stairs. I don’t know how people live there – they must have amazing calves because there don’t seem to be a whole lot of drivable roads in that old section of the city. As I wandered, I went down a few tiny streets that were lined with shops on both sides selling everything you can imagine – all the normal kitchy stuff, but also a lot of beautiful Arab tapestries, lamps, jewelry, incense, pillowcases, shoes, purses, etc. Granada has a very strong Arab history and still has strong ties with areas like Morocco. It was also one of the few cities that I visited that not only has an Arab history, but still has an Arab presence. I enjoyed looking at the shops there because they were very unique and the designs were so beautiful.

Tania in the gardens.

Anyway, I finally figured out how to get to St. Nicholas Plaza by generally following other touristy-looking people. It was quite a hike, but the view was more than worth it. From the top there was a stunning view of the Alambra across the gorge.

The Alambra is the main reason people visit Granada. It is similar to Alcazar in Malaga, but much bigger and grander. It is an old Arab-built castle/fortress//palace with stupendous gardens and architecture. In the distance I could also see snow-capped mountains. It was hard to believe, given the blazing heat, that anything could have snow within sight. I had some Americans from New Mexico take some photos for me and vice versa, then I made my way back down again, this time to the river (which was more like a stream). I walked along it and then started back up again trying to find the famous caves that many flamenco shows are held in. However, I didn’t see them after hiking up many narrow, step-filled alleys, so I gave up and went back down to the river where I then had to start climbing up again to get to Alambra. 

 

More gardens in the summer palace.

My Alambra reservations were at 5:30, but that is just for the main fortress – as long as you have a ticket, you can enter the other part (which includes the garden and summer palace) any time. I arrived a little before four p.m. and was waiting in line behind this group of Australians. This one guy with a giant hat started talking to me. He was clearly the clown of the group and was always making everyone laugh. For example, this girl walked by, and he started fanning her with his hat (as a joke) and she gave him this scandalized look and walked away. It was really funny. Anyway, so I started talking to them and when they found out I was alone, and had 5:30 reservations, they were like “oh, we just met a Brazilian girl who has a 5;30 reservation and she’s all alone too.” Right then, the clown guy saw her walking up and called her over, introduced us, and said we should hang out. Haha. I really appreciated it because until then, I’d really been wishing I had someone to hang out with.

This was really cool in person.

Her name is Tania and we went around the gardens and summer palace before our time came to get into the main facility. It was great because we both liked to take photos, so I didn’t feel bad asking her to take pictures for me and vice versa. She does internal audits for some international company. She used to work in Sao Paulo, Brazil (where she’s from) but was transferred to Paris. She hope to go to China after one more year in Paris. It’s hard for me to believe anyone would voluntarily move to China – especially if they don’t speak Chinese. She said she’d learn if she moved there. That’s just so crazy to me – I’m pretty sure I could work the rest of my life and never be able to speak Chinese. Lol

Waiting to go inside the fortress and playing around.

Anyway, Tania was on a one week holiday from work which is why she was in Spain. We had a nice day – though I have to say, I was a little disappointed in the main part of the Alambra. I don’t know if we missed something or if it was closed, but we liked the summer palace (Realife) better. Though, the views from the top of the fortress were excellent. The gardens were also so impressive – I’ve never seen so many roses in one place! It was incredible. And, like the Alcazar, there were many fountains to celebrate having water. 

(By the way - just talked to Enrique and found out that we missed the main part of the palace which is the most impressive part.  lol  Guess I'll just have to come back!) 

Inside the fortress of Alhambra.

After Alambra, we walked back through those little streets and bought a few things. I then grabbed a kebap before catching the bus back to the bus station. The bus from Granada to Malaga was at 8 p.m. and arrived just before 10 p.m. (and it still wasn’t fully dark). I walked to the local bus and took it back to the stop closest to Enrique’s parents house and walked back without getting lost at all. Lol I think I need an adjustment period everywhere I go, to get familiar. After a couple times, it’s just like it clicks and I can picture everything in my head. Even back in London, it took me a bit to adjust again to navigating the tube and such.

From the fortress.

When I arrived I was really gross after an entire day of walking in the hot sun and then trekking it uphill to their house. Piilar and Juande encouraged me to take a shower and they’d make me food. When I got back to the kitchen, Pilar gave me fruit and Juande made me a yummy salad and cooked me an omelet. I am spoiled rotten.

Malaga

The plaza where Picasso was born.

With a statue of Picasso.

The Roman Theater.

I love these purple trees.

On Saturday, I spent the day in Malaga. I woke up about 9:30 and had breakfast (cereal with fresh fruit - Juande and Pilar always have tons of delicious fresh fruit on hand).  I then got ready for the day, painted my toenails and waited for Juande to get back from getting his tire fixed (it had a puncture). 

In the Malaga streets.

The maid arrived about 10 a.m., and Pilar planned to spend the day cooking while the maid cleaned.  Though honestly, it's hard to imagine what there is to clean - it's so neat!

In Alcazaba.

Juande returned at 11:30 and drove me all around Malaga past the ports and the beaches and the old town.  He pointed out things like the chimneys from factories long ago destroyed (but they kept the tall brick chimneys as a remembrance of the fact that the town used to be a major industrial town).  Before the industry, they grew sugarcane in Malaga (this was a looong time ago), and then later, the primary industries were fabric and tobacco. 

Inside Alcazaba

After the driving tour, Juande parked in a parking deck in the center city.  (This was quite a feat as the spaces were unbelievably tiny, and apparently, no one knows how to park in them without hanging over into the space next to them).  In the end, I had to get out first, and he backed it in, but was then unable to get out of the car, so he pulled it forward again, put the car in neutral, got out, and pushed it into place.  He was able to lock it from the key fob, but was never able to put it in park.  (And when we got back to the car, he pushed it out of the spot from behind, then we got in). lol

We walked through the streets of Malaga as he pointed out different things.  There are many beautiful streets, several of which remind me of Milan in Italy.  We also saw the house where Picasso was born (from the outside, and the outside of the cathedral - it was closed for lunch).  I'd accidentally forgotten my memory card for my camera in my computer, so we stopped by an electronics shop so I could pick up another, smaller one to use for the day.  Juande insisted that he buy it for me, which was really above and beyond, but he would not let me pay.

The bull ring from Alcazaba.

We then saw the Roman theater, built in the first century B.C. and rediscovered by chance in 1951.  Underneath that are Phonecian ruins (they occupied the city in 770 B.C.).  From there, we walked through Alcazaba - an Arab fortress/palace built in the 11th century.  The structure was amazing (as is all the Arab architecture I've seen since I've been in southern Spain).  I guess I should have expected such things after watching shows like Aladdin as kid, but wow.  It's just so impressive.  Their carvings and attention to detail are amazing and, having come from the desert, they really liked water and there are fountains all over the place (which is also impressive because they didn't have electricity, yet they have running water everywhere).  The views over the city from the top of Alcazaba were also great.

View from top of the mountain in E. Malaga

Finally, we walked back to the car (through some pretty gardens) and then Juande drove me to the top of their area (they live in the east side of Malaga up in the hills).  From up there, I got even more beautiful views in every direction. 

At 2:30 we returned to the house and picked up Pilar and then drove to the beach where they'd made reservations at a restaurant right by the sea (Mar de Pedregalejo).  Our reservations were for 3 p.m., and I was about to eat my arm I was so hungry.  I don't know how these people eat breakfast at 7 or 8 or 9, and then don't eat again until 3!

Top of the mountain in E. Malaga.

Anyway, Juande did all the ordering and we just shared everything.  First, we had grilled prawns...basically, giant shrimp that still had their eyes and legs and shells, which you had to take off. After I got over that grossness, they were actually quite good.  Next were some sort of fried fish  and a cold red pepper salad that you ate together (the red pepper salad was cooked so the peppers were moist and floppy and not too strong).  I have no idea what kind of fish it was, but I ate it (and tried to ignore the fact that I'm pretty sure they fried them with part of the scales still on).  Next we were served tiny fried octopi.  I ate about 4 (after trying to cut the legs off, but they were so small it didn't work too well), then we were served giant fried octopi - some pieces were legs (suction cups and all) and other pieces looked like onion rings (they were the body).  I ate 3 or 4 of the body rings, but I'm really not a fan of eating things with the consistency of rubber bands.  Afterward, I had typical Andalusian ice cream (almond ice cream, they told me) and both Pilar and Juande let me try some off their desserts (an apple tart and 3 chocolate mousse cake).  Oh, and, the waiter had the restaurant make fresh-squeezed OJ just for me! (We'd asked if they had fresh, and they said no, only from a bottle, so I said I didn't want any...but then the waiter asked, and they decided to make it for me).  It was the best OJ I've ever had! (Probably because they grow oranges all over the place around here). 

my prawns

The whole meal was so interesting and so much fun - it was so nice of Pilar and Juande to treat me to such a special lunch.  Afterward, we were all tired, so we came back and took siestas.  I slept until 6:45, then went down to the pool.  I wanted to swim, but the sun wasn't hitting the water anymore and it was quite cold.  Instead, I lay on a lounge chair reading for about 30 minutes, then came back inside and watched Desperate Housewives on my computer while Pilar and Juande did work on their computers.

After a while, I watched this show on TV with them (and Lucia when she got home) which is kind of like American Idol, but for all of Europe and it's a search for both the best new song, and singer.  Every country votes after all 42 countries sing.  I think Sweden won.  Talking, in broken Spanglish with Lucia, I discovered that she recently started taking salsa classes.  We both busted out our shoes and danced in her room for a while (with me leading).  I wish we had time to go dancing together.  I promised that next time I was in town, we would.

the octopi

We all ate dinner (homemade gazpacho, fruit, ham and cheese) at 11:30 and didn't finish until after 12.  Unbelievable. 

Overall, a really nice day.  :)  I love this family - I wish I could speak Spanish better.

Ronda

Yesterday when I arrived in Malaga, Juande (Enrique's dad) picked me up from the train station.  Arriving at their house, Pilar (E's mom), was cooking dinner (at about 9:50 p.m.).  Juande speaks the most English, but both are very sweet and told me over and over to act as though I were at my own home.  And it does feel the most like my own home.  It is a very large place with four bedrooms, an office, living room, dining room, terrace, large kitchen/eating area, and a pool in the backyard shared by the other few condos in this complex. The view from the terrace is of the pool and in the distance, the ocean. The floors are all marble and everything is very clean and orderly.  I am occupying Enrique's room and bathroom.  Pilar and Juande also have another son, Guillermo, 27, who is at university I believe.  So, similar to my situation, their daughter is the only one still living with them in this big house - Lucia, age 30 I think. I didn't meet her my first night though - I think she was out. 

On the bus ride to Ronda

Today I went to Ronda - a beautiful Andalucian town to the west of Málaga. I wanted to go to El Torcal - a national reserve with really cool rock formations that you can hike through - but there was no bus that went there and the one that went to the closest town still left you 5 kilometers from the park.  Thus, I decided to go to the next best thing - Ronda.

Ronda is located over a gorge and is literally on both sides with bridges connecting the two sides. The Nueve Puente (new bridge) was built from 1751-1793 and is 390 feet above the canyon floor.The Puente Viejo (old bridge) was built in 1616. Ronda also boasts the oldest bull fighting ring in the Spain, built in 1784, designed by the same architect as designed the Nueve Puente. Ernest Hemingway and Orson Wells spent many summers here and used the town as settings for many works of literature.

View from first overlook in Ronda.

I got up at 8:30 planning to leave by 9:30 to take a bus and then walk to the main bus station from the closest stop, catching the 10:30 bus to Ronda.  Well, I got up in time, but then I spilled makeup on my white shorts, and had to wash them right away, putting me a couple minutes behind leaving the house, which would have been fine, if I'd found the correct bus to take.  But, I couldn't find the stop on the nearby street, so I walked all the way down the mountain to the main road until I found a bus stop that served the bus I needed.  I'd just missed one, so I had to wait 8 minutes.  Then, it dropped me off a 10 min walk from the main bus station.  However, I got lost walking there because a) my google print off map was terrible and b) half the streets either don't have signs or they do but you can't find them.  I finally ended up flat out running for probably at least half a mile, knowing that I had very little time until 10:30.  I reached the station at 10:26 and, sweaty and panting, ran up to one of the buses and asked the driver where the bus to Ronda was.  He said, "once y media - alli" (that means, 11:30, there).  Well, I wanted the 10:30.  I looked at the signs, and nothing said 10:30 to Ronda.  Then I went and checked the main board of times, and guess what?  They had changed their times from what they had online and now their buses leave at 10 or 11:30.

I was kind of pissed, but I got over it and went to try and find some ice cream after my mad dash to the station.  I saw a McDonald's at the other end of the street and figured I'd just be cheap and get ice cream there.  But when I arrived, guess what?  It didn't open until noon.  NOON!  How does a McDonald's not open until noon??  I ended up going to an overpriced coffee shop and getting a pineapple, mango, passion fruit smoothie. 

View over Tejo canyon.

Finally, I got on my bus to Ronda and took a front seat so I could see out the windshield.  I was glad I did, for the views were stunning.  The whole countryside is mountainous/hilly and many of the hills are covered in golden grasses right now, like the middle of California when I drove through it 2 summers ago. We also passed many huge windmills.

It took a little less than 2 hours to reach Ronda.  By then, I was realizing that my left heel was rubbing funny in my shoe and every time I took a step it hurt. My first goal was to find a 'farmacia' to buy a band-aid.  I ended up getting something even better - like a huge, plastic band-aid that is sticky all around and basically just serves as a barrier between your skin and whatever is touching it. A small pack of these was over 7 euros, but ended up being totally worth it.  That said, I think my shoes are done for.  I wore them throughout last time I was in Europe, and I have holes in the backs of the heels.

The man in the pharmacy told me how to get to the tourist center where I got a map and a pass for 5 euros that would get me into five different places within the town.  Right by the tourist center was the bull ring (which I just looked at from the outside) and the first overlook spot.  The view of Tejo canyon below us was breathtaking to say the least.  From there, I went to Nueve Puente which is a magnificent feat of architecture. The views from that were also awesome, and you could see little waterfalls far below.  In the old town across the bridge, there were the narrow cobbled streets and bright flower boxes, as in Cadiz and Cordoba.  I went to see the Museum of Ronda, which, frankly, may have been interesting if I had time to read everything on the walls, but I really didn't, so it ended up just being more like a pretty old house that I got to see.  I also learned a bit about prehistoric burial.

the oldest bull fighting ring in Spain

I then went to the other side of the old city and walked down a whole lot of steps to get to the ancient Arab Bath ruins.  The Arab Baths were made in the 13th and 14th centuries. The process of how they created steam baths, warm baths and cool baths was very interesting (considering they had no electricity).  After hiking back up to the town, I tried to find somewhere to get lunch. I stopped by one restaurant that was totally empty and asked if they had "un bocadillo de atun" - a tuna baguette. The man said yes and put in the order.  When I got my bocadillo, it was basically dark tuna that had been stored in olive oil, slapped on a baguette with tomato slices on top.  But I was so tired and hungry, I didn't care.  I took it go to and started walking away when the owner called after me.  I turned, and he was coming after me with a bottle of water which he gave me for free.  (The bocadillo was only 3 euros, so I don't think it came with it).  I must have just looked pathetic.

I went to Joaquin Peinado museum.  Peinado was a famous painter from 1923 to 1974.  He had a lot of different styles including neo-cubism and neo-realism.  Similar to Picasso and Cezanne sometimes. 

part of the Arab Baths

From there, I went to another overlook from which you could take a path down to a view of the Nueve Puerte from part way down into the valley, which was a great view (as well as a workout to get there and back).  Finally, I made my way back to the bus station to catch the 5 p.m. bus back to Malaga.

When I got back, I got lost, again, trying to find my way to the bus that would take me back to Enrique's parents' house.  Finally, I asked a woman how to get to the road I needed and she was so sweet.  She took my hand and lead me to the corner to point out exactly how I needed to go, and patted my hand with her other hand and she explained.  It was quite adorable.

View of Nueve Puente from halfway down

The bus driver was also helpful, when I explained to him where I needed to go.  I sat in the front so he could tell me where my stop was.  Now, from the stop, it should have been a five minute walk back to Juande and Pilar (Enrique's parents).  Forty-five minutes later, having walked up and down roads that all seemed to have the same name, finding myself in places where I'd been before by a different route, and nearly in tears, I called Juande for 36 pence a minute from my British cell phone.  I tried to explain where I was, but everything kind of looks the same in the area.  It is a lot like San Francisco - steep hills with crazy little, curvy roads.  I was just going up and down, up and down.  I waited for him to find me for another 20 minutes, then he called me back and told me to find him on an easy to find corner.  (At least, it should have been easy to find).  After having to ask 3 people where to go, I finally made it.  I've never been so happy to see someone in my life.

self-timer in action

Juande then drove me to the house, explaining exactly how to go, and then drove back to the bus stop, and back to the house again so hopefully I will now know what to do.  By the time we arrived home, I felt so achy and exhausted.  I took a shower and felt somewhat better, then had some delicious homemade Spanish tortilla (potatoes and cheese in a tortilla shape) that is Pilar's specialty.  She also gave me Spanish cheese and turkey breast, fresh fruit, skim milk and chocolate with orange peel  inside.  Soooo good.

Now, I'm sitting in the living room with them as they watch the soccer (futbol) finals on TV.  I can barely keep my eyes open to type.  Tomorrow I plan to sleep in a bit, and then Juande said he'd show me around Malaga.  Oh, and I also met Enrique's sister Lucia tonight.  She invited me to go out for dinner with her (at about 10 p.m.), but I was too tired to move from the couch.  She teaches school to 4 year olds. Maybe we will go to the beach tomorrow after Juande gives me the Malaga tour.

Cádiz

part of the old town in Cadiz

I arrived in Cádiz about 10 till 2 on Wednesday and immediately found the bus that would take me to Playa Victoria where my CS host Samantha from Wisconsin was going to meet me. When I arrived, she was waiting for me with her friend Johnny who also teaches English in Cádiz.  He was from Nottingham, England and sounded just like Daniel Radcliff in Harry Potter.  It made me happy. :)  We immediately went to a nearby tapas place because they were starving.  I’d eaten a PB and banana on the train, but I went with them for second lunch.  (Here in Spain I have started classifying my meals as follows: breakfast, first lunch, second lunch, ice cream, first dinner, second dinner, chocolate).  Needless to say, I’m beginning to miss the gym.  Lol.

pausing our bike ride to take photos with the ocean

I just had one tapas – cuttlefish meatballs in rice and soaked in oil or butter or something.  I don’t think I’d ever had cuttlefish before, much less in meatball form.  But they were pretty good (and only 2 euros).  I could have been even more adventurous and gotten fried bulls tail, but to eat something like that, I really wouldn’t want to know what it was beforehand. Haha.

we found a really cool tree that I had to play on

After tapas, Johnny left us and Sam lead me back to her place.  She is in a nice apartment in the new part of the city close to the beach.  She has two other roommates who are also English teachers in Cádiz from Wisconsin and Pensilvania.  After dropping my stuff and changing, we headed out to go rent bikes and bike around the island.  (I think it’s an island...either it’s an island, or a peninsula with a very narrow bit from the mainland to the Cádiz area). 

As we took the bus to the old part of the city to get bikes, I asked Sam about her roommates.  She said, “Did you feel the tension when we were at home?”  And I said, “Yes, I wasn’t going to come out and say anything, but I was wondering...” 

the harbor in Cadiz

Apparently there’s been loads of miscommunication between the three and now it is a very awkward situation for Sam, as the other two sort of gang up against her and scarcely talk to her.  It started back 9 months ago when they first arrived and Sam really wanted to find Spanish roommates to immerse herself in the culture, but they sort of pressured her to room with them as there was very little time to find a place.  The whole situation sounds very high-schoolish, and I can see why Sam is looking forward to being done in a couple weeks and returning to the states.

When we arrived to the bike place it was about 4:30...and the sign on the door said they were closed until 5:30.  Siesta hours are a good idea in theory, but it makes it nearly impossible to do anything from about 2 to 5 – EVERYTHING shuts down (minus some of the restaurants).  So, we walked around the old town for about an hour which was very pretty.  It reminded me of a less touristy version of Córdoba with the narrow streets, cobbled streets and beautiful churches. 

With Samantha on a bike ride pause

When we returned to the bike place it took another 45 minutes for them to prepare two bikes for us to rent and since they closed at 8:30, we were only able to rent them for 2 hours. Finally, we hit the road (or the sidewalk, as it were) and began to bike around the island. The coast was beautiful with harbors and lighthouses and an old wall (probably Roman).  We stopped periodically to take photos, and biked through a really cool park that had a waterfall and you could bike under it through this little tunnel and see the waterfall from behind.  It reminded me of something you’d see at Disney.  We also rode for a while on a path along the beaches which were really lovely. 

sunset in Cadiz

After returning the bikes, we went back to her place then went to the grocery store to pick up food to make sandwiches for dinner.  I wanted to eat on the beach to watch the sun set in the Atlantic (since that’s not something an American gets to do every day).  But, by the time we made it to the beach with our food, we had just missed the sun sinking behind the waves. However, the colors in the sky and on the water were still wonderful. We took a bunch of photos and then made our turkey and cheese sandwiches.  Munching on apples and chocolate, we watched as the sliver of a crescent moon came out,  then stars began appearing and the lights of the city started twinkling on as the lighthouse began its slow rotations. I wish a camera could capture the beauty of that night. 

the moon after sunset

By the time we walked home, it was about 11:15 and we went to bed shortly thereafter.  I thought I was going to have to entertain myself the next day because Sam was scheduled to work until 2, but when I woke up at 10 and went into her room to get my clothes, I was startled to see her still in bed.  She said they’d called her in the morning and said she wasn’t needed today.  What perfect timing!  After putting on our bathing suits under our clothes and packing sandwiches, we went shopping before heading to the beach.

Sam was trying to get a photo of me touching my toes, but she was a little late or early every time lol

Sam doing a yoga pose

I bought a new bathing suit (which I obviously haven’t worn yet) and a pair of flat black slip-on shoes.  Both were cheaper than one could get such things in America, even with the monetary conversion. 
After that, it was beach time.  I was so excited.  When we arrived, I coated myself in sunscreen and we lay down to absorb the warm sun and listen to music on my iPod.  I went to test the water, but it was quite cold.  However, after about 2 hours, I really wanted to go in.  I sucked it up and got in, and once in, it felt lovely.  It felt so good to swim and be free and float and dive and kick.  Watching me have such a good time in the water, other beach-goers decided to also come in.  I started a trend, as the water had been nearly empty before I entered.  Finally, I came back in to dry off before we had to head home.  Sam tried to go in, but only got up to her waist before she gave up. Lol. 

an adorable Spanish beach baby

A side note about Spanish beaches: prepare yourself for a lot of almost-naked people – many of which should not be naked.  The group next to us on the beach consisted of two late-30s women, a man, and a baby.  Maybe the women were sisters, or just friends, I don’t know, but the man was definitely with one of the women.  Yet, both women were topless and wearing almost-thong bikini bottoms.  I’m sorry, but I would feel incredibly uncomfortable knowing my husband was hanging out with me and my sister/friend who was nearly naked.  So weird.  We also noticed two VERY pregnant women in tiny bikinis.  They, at least, had tops on, but it’s just such an interesting difference between the US and here.  In the States, pregnant women usually wear one pieces or tankinis to cover their stomachs – but not here.  In a way, I kind of envy their freedom.  With so much less taboo, they don’t have the same embarrassment that Americans often feel.  Also, perhaps this bodily freedom is why the Spanish men don’t seem to leer or catcall as much as the men in France (most of whom were from the middle east or Algeria or other such places).  In Spain, all you have to do is go to the beach for a continuous peep show. Lol

in the freezing water

Back at Sam’s (after getting ice cream), I packed and we finished our chocolate from the night before and she walked me to the bus stop.  I am now on a train from Cádiz to Malaga where I will be staying with Enrique’s parents – Juande and Pilar. It’ll be nice to stay with a real family and be able to sleep in my own room (well, Enrique’s old room, but mine for the next four nights).

Sevilla

View from Grant's side of the river over Sevilla (Torre de Oro is the tower).

Today I woke up late after staying up fairly late with my CS host last night.  After working on a column for work, I got ready and Clara (my host) walked with me to the spot where I was to meet my old Spanish TA Grant who is working in Sevilla this year.  Clara had some things to do and then went to a Portuguese class from 5-7, so I had the whole day to kill.  Grant took me to a tapas place that was really yummy and fairly cheap. We split a large goat cheese and nut salad, chicken filled with bacon and covered in a delicious almond sauce with fried potatoes, and tuna with some sort of sauce on it. It was all great.

On the bridge

From there we walked to the university here where he works and I got to see that building which was beautiful - an old tobacco mill converted into the school. We then walked to the train station because we both needed to buy train tickets for tomorrow (mine to Cadiz, and his to some little town that I can't remember the name of).  We took the metro to the other side of the river after that and he went home and gave me directions for walking about and seeing nice scenery.  I walked from about 5 to 6, then ended up at Plaza de Espana where the education protest was scheduled to start. I got some great photos of the Plaza right before the protest started, as everyone seemed to clear out and it was eerily unpopulated.  Then, at 6:30, the first protesters arrived shouting chants and blowing whistles and megaphone horns.

Grant had told me about why they were protesting - they have made many recent cuts to education and teacher pay, as well as raising prices for university here and the people feel entitled to what they used to have (even though it is still way cheaper than in the US).  In the states, we see higher education as a privilege - here they see it is a right.

Plaza de España

On my way home, I stopped by this new structure in Sevilla that looks like these giant mushrooms.  Apparently it's some sort of shopping complex, and also has a bunch of old Roman wall preservation, and also you can go to the top and walk along these walkways which offer great views over the city.  I glanced at the ruins, but I've seen so many lately, I mainly just wanted to go to the top of the mushrooms.


I also have to mention that it was a GORGEOUS day with a high of 84 and a perfectly blue sky.  Perfect for walking all day, which is what I did.

Plaza de Espana.

Again.

Anyway, I got back to Clara's house around 7:40 and she got there shortly thereafter.  We went to the grocery store and got some food for dinner, then came back and right then we started hearing a lot of noise in the streets from the balcony.  Upon going out, we saw thousands of protestors coming down her street.  In the end, we just sat on the porch and ate while watching them all for a good hour.  It seemed like the entire city was involved.  I've never witnessed a protest of any significant size, so it  was pretty amazing to see - especially from the 6th floor balcony on a main street.  There were probably 10,000 people!  Luckily, it seemed that they were being peaceful about it (not burning or trashing things).  We were also lucky we went to the grocery store when we did, for we would never have made it home if we'd gone any later.

Right before the protest began it got eerily quiet.

Tomorrow I'm taking a train to Cadiz and staying with a girl who lives there named Samantha who is from Wisconsin. She is also here in Spain teaching English. lol  I'm excited to go there because Grant said it's his favorite city in Spain and that the beaches are wonderful.  I was planning on going Thursday to Gibraltar on my way to Malaga, but transportation to Gibraltar seems very difficult, so I think I'll just go straight to Malaga on Thursday evening.

By the cathedral.

On top of the mushroom thing.

The protest going by Clara's balcony.

Cordoba

Cordoba
was absolutely beautiful. The day was gorgeous – not too hot, not too cold, mostly sunny. Upon arrival, I got a map from the tourism office and the lady told me to take bus there to get to the city center with all the old buildings. As I went out into the bus area, a Chinese girl (Lina) stopped me and asked if I knew how to get into the city. I told her what I knew, and she asked if she could join me. She spoke English pretty well and I found out later she has been studying in Ireland for 3 years. She is on a 2 week vacation through Portugal, Spain and Paris.

Inside the Mezquita Catedral

Inside the courtyard of the Mezquita

View over the city.

While I’d left my luggage in a locker at the station, she didn’t know there were lockers, so she was carrying a very large backpack on her back the whole time. I didn’t ask if she knew about until after we were on the bus to the city center. Oops. I felt bad for her all day – me with just a purse and her with this giant bag.

She spoke as much Spanish as I speak French – that is to say, almost none. She was so grateful to have me with her all day. Who would have ever seen the day when I would be the official translator for someone in Spanish? Lol Anyway, I felt quite accomplished. Many of the vendors in Cordoba spoke English, as it is very touristy, but if I tried to speak in Spanish, they usually spoke in Spanish as well.

The first thing we did was go to the Mezquita Catedral. That is, the “Mosque Cathedral,” which which seems to be an anachronism, but I assure you it’s not. Originally, a Christian church was built on the site in the 500s. Then, in 785 the Islamic invasion of Cordoba happened and they began constructing a a huge, gorgeous mosque over the old church. It was such a masterpiece, it was considered the most important sanctuary of Western Islam. It would even come to substitute Damascus as a reference model for other such mosques. Cordoba was reconquered by the Christian King Ferdinand III in 1236, at which point it was used again as a church, and later expanded in the 1500s to add an impressive chapels, transept and choir.

All in all, it was totally worth the 8 euro entry fee and also happens to be a World Heritage Site. (BTW – Spain has either the most or the second most World Heritage sites in the world).

Old Roman wall

After that, we walked around the city, stopping for a quick visit to a museum that is a home from 1,000 years ago. The city reminded me a lot of Venice in that it had many narrow, cobbled streets, many tourist shops, window boxes full of colorful flowers, and gypsies trying to sell you things. I liked the architecture and the feel of the town, but all the milling tourists got annoying. (I know, I know, who am I to talk?) But honestly, it gets really annoying when you’re trying to have an authentic experience. Today was also weird because it was the first time that people automatically assumed I was a tourist (which I’m sure had nothing to do with the little Asian girl carrying a giant backpack, a huge camera around her neck, and a large map in her hand. I’m telling you, the Asian tourists here are hysterical.)

So pretty!  Streets here were adorable.

But I was glad to have the company, as was she. I navigated the streets for us, and I’m sure we would have seen a lot less if I hadn’t been. She had to catch a bus to Madrid a couple hours before my train to Sevilla, so after I asked (in Spanish) for directions to a bus stop that would deposit her at the train station, I walked around by myself. I saw a ferris wheel over this bridge that I tried to walk to, but it must have been really big, because the closer I got, the more I realized how far away it really was. Turns out, it was a circus/fair. I really would have loved to go, but I wouldn’t have had the time to make it worth the 10 euros, even if I had been able to walk there quickly. 

Plaza de la Corredera.

I ended up walking all the way back to the train station (thinking the walk was shorter than it actually was), where I got a sandwich for first dinner (I usually have two here, so I refer to them as first and second dinner).   It was just a pollo con queso y tomato baguette.  

I then took a train to Sevilla and am now at my host, Clara's, home.  It is very close to the train station and the main part of Sevilla.  She and her roommate are both from the US and very nice (though they are both sick with colds, so I really hope I don't catch it!).  They made me veggies with a turkey burger and Mexican hot chocolate for dinner (best hot chocolate ever!).  I discovered that I slightly burnt the back of my neck today walking around Cordoba.  Urrggg.  The day didn't feel that hot, but I guess since that's the only spot I forgot to put on sunscreen, it is clear that the sun was more potent than it felt.  

Lina in the Plaza.

I am so excited to re-discover Sevilla tomorrow!