Ronda

Yesterday when I arrived in Malaga, Juande (Enrique's dad) picked me up from the train station.  Arriving at their house, Pilar (E's mom), was cooking dinner (at about 9:50 p.m.).  Juande speaks the most English, but both are very sweet and told me over and over to act as though I were at my own home.  And it does feel the most like my own home.  It is a very large place with four bedrooms, an office, living room, dining room, terrace, large kitchen/eating area, and a pool in the backyard shared by the other few condos in this complex. The view from the terrace is of the pool and in the distance, the ocean. The floors are all marble and everything is very clean and orderly.  I am occupying Enrique's room and bathroom.  Pilar and Juande also have another son, Guillermo, 27, who is at university I believe.  So, similar to my situation, their daughter is the only one still living with them in this big house - Lucia, age 30 I think. I didn't meet her my first night though - I think she was out. 

On the bus ride to Ronda

Today I went to Ronda - a beautiful Andalucian town to the west of Málaga. I wanted to go to El Torcal - a national reserve with really cool rock formations that you can hike through - but there was no bus that went there and the one that went to the closest town still left you 5 kilometers from the park.  Thus, I decided to go to the next best thing - Ronda.

Ronda is located over a gorge and is literally on both sides with bridges connecting the two sides. The Nueve Puente (new bridge) was built from 1751-1793 and is 390 feet above the canyon floor.The Puente Viejo (old bridge) was built in 1616. Ronda also boasts the oldest bull fighting ring in the Spain, built in 1784, designed by the same architect as designed the Nueve Puente. Ernest Hemingway and Orson Wells spent many summers here and used the town as settings for many works of literature.

View from first overlook in Ronda.

I got up at 8:30 planning to leave by 9:30 to take a bus and then walk to the main bus station from the closest stop, catching the 10:30 bus to Ronda.  Well, I got up in time, but then I spilled makeup on my white shorts, and had to wash them right away, putting me a couple minutes behind leaving the house, which would have been fine, if I'd found the correct bus to take.  But, I couldn't find the stop on the nearby street, so I walked all the way down the mountain to the main road until I found a bus stop that served the bus I needed.  I'd just missed one, so I had to wait 8 minutes.  Then, it dropped me off a 10 min walk from the main bus station.  However, I got lost walking there because a) my google print off map was terrible and b) half the streets either don't have signs or they do but you can't find them.  I finally ended up flat out running for probably at least half a mile, knowing that I had very little time until 10:30.  I reached the station at 10:26 and, sweaty and panting, ran up to one of the buses and asked the driver where the bus to Ronda was.  He said, "once y media - alli" (that means, 11:30, there).  Well, I wanted the 10:30.  I looked at the signs, and nothing said 10:30 to Ronda.  Then I went and checked the main board of times, and guess what?  They had changed their times from what they had online and now their buses leave at 10 or 11:30.

I was kind of pissed, but I got over it and went to try and find some ice cream after my mad dash to the station.  I saw a McDonald's at the other end of the street and figured I'd just be cheap and get ice cream there.  But when I arrived, guess what?  It didn't open until noon.  NOON!  How does a McDonald's not open until noon??  I ended up going to an overpriced coffee shop and getting a pineapple, mango, passion fruit smoothie. 

View over Tejo canyon.

Finally, I got on my bus to Ronda and took a front seat so I could see out the windshield.  I was glad I did, for the views were stunning.  The whole countryside is mountainous/hilly and many of the hills are covered in golden grasses right now, like the middle of California when I drove through it 2 summers ago. We also passed many huge windmills.

It took a little less than 2 hours to reach Ronda.  By then, I was realizing that my left heel was rubbing funny in my shoe and every time I took a step it hurt. My first goal was to find a 'farmacia' to buy a band-aid.  I ended up getting something even better - like a huge, plastic band-aid that is sticky all around and basically just serves as a barrier between your skin and whatever is touching it. A small pack of these was over 7 euros, but ended up being totally worth it.  That said, I think my shoes are done for.  I wore them throughout last time I was in Europe, and I have holes in the backs of the heels.

The man in the pharmacy told me how to get to the tourist center where I got a map and a pass for 5 euros that would get me into five different places within the town.  Right by the tourist center was the bull ring (which I just looked at from the outside) and the first overlook spot.  The view of Tejo canyon below us was breathtaking to say the least.  From there, I went to Nueve Puente which is a magnificent feat of architecture. The views from that were also awesome, and you could see little waterfalls far below.  In the old town across the bridge, there were the narrow cobbled streets and bright flower boxes, as in Cadiz and Cordoba.  I went to see the Museum of Ronda, which, frankly, may have been interesting if I had time to read everything on the walls, but I really didn't, so it ended up just being more like a pretty old house that I got to see.  I also learned a bit about prehistoric burial.

the oldest bull fighting ring in Spain

I then went to the other side of the old city and walked down a whole lot of steps to get to the ancient Arab Bath ruins.  The Arab Baths were made in the 13th and 14th centuries. The process of how they created steam baths, warm baths and cool baths was very interesting (considering they had no electricity).  After hiking back up to the town, I tried to find somewhere to get lunch. I stopped by one restaurant that was totally empty and asked if they had "un bocadillo de atun" - a tuna baguette. The man said yes and put in the order.  When I got my bocadillo, it was basically dark tuna that had been stored in olive oil, slapped on a baguette with tomato slices on top.  But I was so tired and hungry, I didn't care.  I took it go to and started walking away when the owner called after me.  I turned, and he was coming after me with a bottle of water which he gave me for free.  (The bocadillo was only 3 euros, so I don't think it came with it).  I must have just looked pathetic.

I went to Joaquin Peinado museum.  Peinado was a famous painter from 1923 to 1974.  He had a lot of different styles including neo-cubism and neo-realism.  Similar to Picasso and Cezanne sometimes. 

part of the Arab Baths

From there, I went to another overlook from which you could take a path down to a view of the Nueve Puerte from part way down into the valley, which was a great view (as well as a workout to get there and back).  Finally, I made my way back to the bus station to catch the 5 p.m. bus back to Malaga.

When I got back, I got lost, again, trying to find my way to the bus that would take me back to Enrique's parents' house.  Finally, I asked a woman how to get to the road I needed and she was so sweet.  She took my hand and lead me to the corner to point out exactly how I needed to go, and patted my hand with her other hand and she explained.  It was quite adorable.

View of Nueve Puente from halfway down

The bus driver was also helpful, when I explained to him where I needed to go.  I sat in the front so he could tell me where my stop was.  Now, from the stop, it should have been a five minute walk back to Juande and Pilar (Enrique's parents).  Forty-five minutes later, having walked up and down roads that all seemed to have the same name, finding myself in places where I'd been before by a different route, and nearly in tears, I called Juande for 36 pence a minute from my British cell phone.  I tried to explain where I was, but everything kind of looks the same in the area.  It is a lot like San Francisco - steep hills with crazy little, curvy roads.  I was just going up and down, up and down.  I waited for him to find me for another 20 minutes, then he called me back and told me to find him on an easy to find corner.  (At least, it should have been easy to find).  After having to ask 3 people where to go, I finally made it.  I've never been so happy to see someone in my life.

self-timer in action

Juande then drove me to the house, explaining exactly how to go, and then drove back to the bus stop, and back to the house again so hopefully I will now know what to do.  By the time we arrived home, I felt so achy and exhausted.  I took a shower and felt somewhat better, then had some delicious homemade Spanish tortilla (potatoes and cheese in a tortilla shape) that is Pilar's specialty.  She also gave me Spanish cheese and turkey breast, fresh fruit, skim milk and chocolate with orange peel  inside.  Soooo good.

Now, I'm sitting in the living room with them as they watch the soccer (futbol) finals on TV.  I can barely keep my eyes open to type.  Tomorrow I plan to sleep in a bit, and then Juande said he'd show me around Malaga.  Oh, and I also met Enrique's sister Lucia tonight.  She invited me to go out for dinner with her (at about 10 p.m.), but I was too tired to move from the couch.  She teaches school to 4 year olds. Maybe we will go to the beach tomorrow after Juande gives me the Malaga tour.